Evening seminar in Jackson, Wyoming

Date: Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Time: 5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.
Please arrive 15min early for check-in and refreshments.
Location: Teton County Library Auditorium, Jackson, WY

Passive House, the most rigorous building performance standard in the world, has produced over 20,000 new and renovated residential, commercial and institutional buildings worldwide. Super-insulation, high-performance windows, airtight construction, heat-recovery ventilation, and high-efficiency lighting, appliances, and equipment are key measures that combine to drastically reduce energy use and provide healthy, comfortable spaces.

Attend this seminar to learn about the fundamental science and principles of the Passive House standard; steps involved in applying the standard to extremely cold-climate Teton County projects; and local programs, resources and incentives available to help with these projects.

--> Register now for this free event

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Speakers: Jesse Stover, Teton County Building Inspector, and Katy Hollbacher, P.E., Certified Passive House Consultant

Passive House comes to Build It Green's East Bay Green Building Professionals Guild

Date: Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Time: 5:30PM-8:00PM
Register now

Attend this meeting to learn the steps involved with building a new or remodeled home to Passive House standards. Detailed, technical case studies of West Marin County’s Blue House (a deep-energy retrofit) and Blue2 House (a new affordable home, currently under construction) will be presented:

• Passive House performance criteria
  
• Design approach & construction details
  
• Insulation techniques
  
• Mitigation of thermal bridging
  
• Foundation detailing
  
• Air tightness detailing
  
• HVAC systems
  
• Passive House certification process
  

In a nutshell: how to achieve Passive House with building materials and systems common to local Bay Area projects. Lessons learned, pictures, triumphs and more!

A Passive House requires 80-90% less heating than the typical building and is literally insulated not only from the cold of a winter day, but also from rising energy costs. These buildings maintain a comfortable indoor climate without large "active" mechanical systems, hence the term "Passive”. While heating systems generally can’t be completely eliminated in a Passive House, they can be drastically downsized and simplified since the home is primarily heated from passive solar gains and internal heat generated from cooking, bathing, lighting, appliances, and people simply breathing!

The somewhat generic term Passive House actually refers to a performance-based building standard that can be applied to new or existing, residential or non-residential buildings alike. The standard consists of only three criteria that establish aggressive limits on:

1. Space heating and cooling energy use
   
2. Total (source/primary) energy use
   
3. Air leakage
   

Specifics for achieving the standard vary depending on location, existing conditions, design preferences, building type and more. However, techniques generally include:

Do you want to build smarter, save money, and provide improved comfort and energy performance for your clients? Sign up today for these free spring/summer classes, part of PG&E's Energy Efficiency class series!

Register: PG&E's Energy Training Center, Stockton

Date: Monday, March 22, 2010
Time: 9:00AM - 4:30PM

Register: PG&E's Pacific Energy Center, San Francisco

Date: Friday, June 25, 2010
Time: 9:00AM - 4:30PM

Advanced framing, or Optimal Value Engineering, is a systems approach to the design and construction of wood-framed structures that reduces lumber use, material costs, and waste while maximizing thermal performance and complying with structural codes. In this class, learn how to optimize building layouts and details to minimize material use and maximize energy efficiency of building assemblies. Main modules will include:

Advanced Framing: Architects & Engineers Collaborating for Resource & Energy Efficiency

Date: August 11, 2009
Time: 6:30-8:00 pm
Place: AIA San Francisco, 130 Sutter Street, Suite 600

Please attend my free presentation hosted by AIA San Francisco's Committee on the Environment (COTE) and the Structural Engineers Association of Northern California (SEAONC):

Advanced framing is a smart, common sense way to design and build structures but can be challenging to implement because of added design and coordination requirements. In this presentation you will learn about design and framing details, relevant code references, project coordination guidelines, and tips on gaining building officials’ support and approval of any unfamiliar practices.

RSVP via email to: rsvp@aiasf.org

If you're interested in getting involved with COTE, come early to attend the monthly committee meeting from 5-6pm.

Is there an easy way to estimate the additional cost of green vs. standard building? First, no--there is no "magic calculator"; building projects are too complex and unique to apply a simple template that can be universally applied.

But more importantly, the entire premise of this question is misleading. Going green can actually cost less. First, let’s clarify the term “cost” so you can compare products and technologies appropriately. Which costs more: a $.75 incandescent light bulb or a $3 compact fluorescent? If you pay $.75 for an incandescent bulb that has a one-year lifespan and costs $10 to operate over that year, the annualized cost is $10.75. If instead you buy a $3 compact fluorescent that has a ten-year lifespan and costs $3 to operate each year, the annualized cost is just $3.30—70% less than the product that appeared to be such a steal at first glance! Think long-term, or lifecycle, cost rather than what you're paying today. And remember, cost is not synonymous with value. How much more would you pay for a gallon of paint that you knew wouldn't emit harmful chemicals in your child's bedroom?

When it comes to housing, the cost to build any project, green or not, depends on numerous factors. Costs can basically be broken down into five categories:

Advanced framing, sometimes called Optimal Value Engineering, is basically a building method that reduces lumber use, minimizes wood waste, and maximizes a structure’s energy efficiency. For every piece of unneeded lumber eliminated, a builder saves three times: once by not purchasing, once by not moving around, and once by not hauling to the recycler. And eliminating unnecessary wood allows more space for insulation—making your home more energy efficient and saving you money in the long run. And of course, smart wood use also saves trees and forests.

Advanced framing is a collection of techniques that are allowed by building codes. It better integrates the design, engineering, and construction trades—as these trades tend to pretty much work independently. Given that advanced framing saves resources and energy, it’s an excellent green/sustainable approach to construction and is considered ‘better’ than standard building methods. Sounds like a good idea, so why isn’t it used all the time? Sadly, advanced framing can be challenging to implement because of added design and coordination requirements. For advanced framing projects, the project manager needs to:

There’s never been a better time to invest in energy-efficiency improvements for your home and in turn support the “green economy” and larger movement to reduce our dependence on non-renewable fuel resources. Gas and electricity costs continue to escalate, homes continue to be drafty and uncomfortable, and lots of incentives are available to help reduce upfront costs of upgrades!

To make the best use of your dollars, spend them in this order:

1. Reduce energy demand,
   
2. Optimize energy use, and finally
   
3. Incorporate renewable energy.
   

It wouldn’t be smart to install a solar water heating system, for example, before first reducing demand for hot water by installing low-flow showerheads and water-efficient appliances. The Federal Energy Policy Act of 2005 was just amended in February and generously boosts tax credits for homeowners:

Start by taking advantage of tax breaks for improving your home’s shell (exterior envelope) by reducing air leakage and heat loss between your heated interior space and unconditioned attic. For best results hire a home-performance contractor that verifies their improvements with testing equipment. The first step should be to apply caulk or spray foam to cracks or gaps in the attic floor. Don’t allow this step to be skipped—air leakage likely accounts for over 25% of your home’s heat loss!

If ductwork runs through the attic, ensure it’s not crushed or damaged and runs as straight as possible and then seal joints with mastic. Next install blown-in cellulose attic insulation to provide minimum R-30 (a measure of resistance to heat flow,) an 8- or 9-inch depth—though if space allows a full 12 inches is even better. Bury ductwork in the insulation if possible.